Last week saw the reopening of Michelin-starred Endo at the Rotunda in London, after a spell closed for refurbishment.
Third-generation sushi master Endo Kazutoshi is back at the venue on the eighth floor of the Television Centre in Wood Lane.
It is not just cosmetic changes Endo has made to his restaurant, with the time away serving as a period of reflection to progress even further, drawing on inspirations from the past.
Discussing his spell away from the Rotunda, which is already fully booked until the end of November, Endo told The Staff Canteen: “The time away from the Rotunda has been very formative for me. I spent a lot of time getting back to my roots, reconnecting with what omakase (where chefs decide which dishes to serve) means to me.
“Like my father, my grandfather was also a sushi master and during this period I went over his notebook which was full of notes and recipes from the past. This concept of looking into the past to inform the future is called onkochishin, and this is something we will be focusing on at this stage of the Rotunda.
“Travelling and getting to know other chefs have always been a big sense of inspiration to me.
“During the Gastromasa summit in London I met many amazing chefs such as Diego Guerrero, Jordi Roca and Antonio Bachour, welcoming them to Kioku for a one off omakase experience.
“It was a pleasure to then dine at Diego’s DSTAgE in Madrid and to swap experiences. Closer to home, I cooked with Roberta Hall McCarron at The Little Chartroom up in Edinburgh and Tom Aikens at his restaurant Muse.
“I also did a small pop up with Three Sheets in Dalston just before the Rotunda reopened. It is great to do something so relaxed and informal before our usual service.”
Asked what changes diners can expect to see when they return to the Rotunda, Endo added: “There are a few physical changes, for example the counter is narrower and will only seat 10 people.
“We have added a new woodscape seating area for guests to relax before or after their meal, designed in collaboration with my friend Kengo Kuma.
“The main changes, for me, are operational. We will be focusing on closer relationships with suppliers, many of which I got to visit during the period when the Rotunda was closed, as well as creating a bespoke experience for our guests.
“The kitchen will now sit behind the counter and the entire evening will unfold in front of the guests and with nothing taking place behind their backs or to the side.
“We have also expanded our drink offering and will be offering a tea pairing alongside wine and sake pairings. It’s all about making the experience as personal as possible.”
Endo sources some of his ingredients from trusted suppliers back in Japan, as well as making the most of some British produce.
Explaining the process, Endo said: “For me, the most important part is my relationship with suppliers. Some of these go back years and some are new, but all of them mean a lot to me.
“When I am in Japan I always visit my suppliers. I go to Fukuoka for rice, Ehime for soy sauce, Ariake for seaweed and Shizuoka for wasabi. It seems like a lot, but it’s worth it.
“I get most of my seafood from the UK and Portugal, for example my crabs and lobsters come from Lizard Island in Cornwall, which I visited this summer.
“I also got to meet some new suppliers through other chefs such as Roberta Hall McCarron, who introduced me to her Scottish seafood suppliers following our collaboration in June.
“These connections are essential to my work at the Rotunda and ensure that my ingredients are the best they can be.”
This year has also seen Endo open another restaurant and bar, Kioku at The OWO, near Westminster.
“The first few months at Kioku have gone very well,” said Endo.
“I am pleased with the team and it has been wonderful to hear great feedback from our guests.
“Kioku is very different from the Rotunda, but that makes it a good challenge and a great way of expressing myself in a different way.”
Since Endo first moved to London, the landscape of Japanese cuisine in London has changed, highlighted by the recent opening of Tokyo College of Sushi & Washoku, the first sushi school of its kind in Europe.
“I really enjoy living in London,” said Endo.
“Having lived all over the world, including Japan, Spain and Italy, I think London has an incredible energy.
“People all over the world come to live in this city and the mixture of cultures creates something very special. This was the case when I first moved here, 17 years ago, but now it’s even more visible.
“I think Japanese restaurants in London have come a long way, mainly due to the diners being exposed to more ideas and tastes that challenge them.
“That change is also due to people like Rainer Becker (the founder of Zuma) who have a truly international vision and a desire to create an excellent, authentic experience.
“For this next stage of the Rotunda we are really trying to honour that and bring an authentic and personable omakase experience to our guests.”
As well as being awarded a Michelin star, the Rotunda has seen further recognition, such as placing 15th in this year’s National Restaurant Awards best UK restaurants list.
“I am very proud of the recognition that the Rotunda has received,” said Endo.
“Being awarded a Michelin star within six months of opening has been an incredible experience both for me and for my team.
“We are always pushing ourselves to do better, we are never satisfied, I guess that is just the Japanese way!
“In other words, awards are important, but for us the main goal is to create a special experience for our guests at every service and if we achieve this, that is our most important award.”
(Photos: Rebecca Dickson)
