Tucked away in the cosy town of Hay on Wye, Charmaine McHugo and her husband Mark run Chapters, a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Charmaine mainly works in the front-of-house area and garden while her husband manages the kitchen.
Chapters is supplied by its very own half-acre kitchen garden located a few miles down the road where veg, fruit, flowers and herbs are grown for sole supply of the restaurant.
The farm-to-fork restaurant was awarded a Michelin Green Star for its commitment to sustainability in 2022 and has retained it ever since.
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Upon receiving the Michelin Green Star, Mark said: "It is key for our business not to have a negative impact on other people and our planet. We follow a no-dig approach in our restaurant garden and follow the ethos 'Reduce, Reuse, Recycle' in all areas. We also continually read, research and talk to others in order to incorporate new ideas."
They also offer a seasonally changing taste menu to ensure there’s little waste, lots of flavour, and an honest celebration of nature at the restaurant.
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She said: “My job really varies from what other people’s might be if they were just managing a garden. We have a really small team, it’s myself, my husband Mark is the head chef, and then two other chefs and a couple of KPs. So between Mark and I, we basically do all of the back-of-house stuff, all the admin, and I run the front of house in the evenings.
“Then I’m also in the garden during the day. It’s a bit full-on but it works, and it means we’re really connected to every part of what we’re doing.”
“On the days we’re open, I’m probably in the garden for about three hours, watering, sowing seeds, harvesting. I try to do one big pick a week for the restaurant - root veg, sturdier bits and then top up with herbs or flowers as needed. After that, I’m into the restaurant by midday, setting up, chatting with Mark about menus, answering phones, emails... and then front of house in the evening.
“Earlier in the week, when we’re closed, I’ll spend up to six hours in the garden and do the heavier jobs, moving compost, making raised beds. I try to save the less exhausting jobs for service days. Otherwise, I’d be compost-lugging and working till 11pm, which is not ideal!”
Charmaine is also an advocate for sustainability, she added: “Water saving is the best place to start. We’re getting some big water butts donated. You don’t need to spend lots of money, go to places like Facebook Marketplace or get old bins, even basic rainwater setups will do. It’s better for your plants than tap water, and it’s just smarter. Same with seeds, do seed swaps, save seeds.
"When you save seeds from your own garden, they become stronger and more resilient over time. It saves money, and you’re growing plants better suited to your climate. That kind of small-circle thinking is so powerful.”
Written by Abi Kinsella
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