Daniel Clifford: ‘I don’t think I’ll ever let Midsummer go’

While there has been a long period of stability at Midsummer House, opened 26 years ago by chef patron Daniel Clifford, 2024 has seen big changes behind the scenes.

After his lengthy service of 14 years, head chef Mark Abbott opted to depart the two Michelin-starred restaurant, leaving a massive gap to fill.

Daniel turned to former Midsummer chef Liam Anderson, who had most recently been working at two Michelin-starred Chapter One in Dublin.

all change

Given how successful Midsummer House had been for over a decade under the same stewardship, change can always be a bit unsettling. But in the first month or so with chef de cuisine Liam at the helm in the kitchen, it has been so far, so good for the Cambridge restaurant.

Discussing the period of change, Daniel told The Staff Canteen: “Mark is an absolute angel. He started when he was about 23 and worked all the way through.

“A 14-year stint is a big stint. It’s never going to be beaten, I don’t think, apart from myself. He came in, became a part of the wallpaper really. He kept Midsummer exactly where it needed to be.

“He gave me a year’s notice, was very respectful towards the business. I made him a business partner as well. But Mark came to a point in his life where he wanted to do what he wanted to do and I wanted to carry on pushing the restaurant forward.

“The problem with Midsummer is I’m always here. It’s difficult for a person to take that next step. Mark wanted to take it. Me and Mark sat down and had a long conversation about his replacement. The first person we both mentioned was Liam.”

He continued: “When Mark had been here for such a long period of time, he’d become a rock of the kitchen. All the suppliers knew him, he knew how the place ran, inside out.

“Initially I was nervous, but then a week into it you start thinking okay, it is time for a change. It is time to move it up. Are we relaxing and enjoying what we’re doing? Are we pushing forward? Now it’s time for fresh blood. That fresh blood has made a big difference.”

It has not simply been a case of one chef out and one in. Liam’s arrival has also seen Daniel’s role day-to-day become slightly different.

“We met up and went out for dinner and had a long conversation,” Daniel explained.

“Liam set some rules. He said ‘I want to come back, but I also want to take the pressure away from you and I want the opportunity to run the kitchen’.

“To be totally honest with you, because Mark was a partner, it’s made me look at the running the business a lot more than I was.

“Liam has come in and taken control of the kitchen. I’m still here for most services, but he runs the pass.”

The 51-year-old added: “I’ve got a very clear picture of where we need to go.

“I make loads of mistakes. I’ve lost good friends and colleagues because of it. I’ve managed to calm down my temper as I get older.

“For me now watching it run smoothly with someone else at the helm running it makes me prouder than anything. I stand there and watch it every night and think it’s just as good, if not better.”

toughest market

To still be operating a fine dining restaurant at such a high level in this current climate for hospitality is an achievement in itself.

But, as Daniel explained, he is far from immune to the financial challenges others have been facing.

“It’s the most difficult part of the 26 years I’ve been open,” he said.

“I’ve seen recessions. What I’ve seen now is it’s difficult to have a dream and a vision when you’re being held back by the finances that are coming into the business.

“A Saturday you’re full. A Thursday, you might be full for lunch and you might be very quiet for dinner. How do you staff that? That’s the biggest question.

“But you’ve got to grit your teeth and go through it.

“At Midsummer, we’re on top of everything. We don’t let sleeping dogs lie. We don’t get into bed with one supplier and believe that a supplier is going to look after us forever.

“Costs are not set costs, everything is negotiable and everyone wants your business. You’ve got to shop around. At home you’ll do it, it’s completely dependent on how much is in your bank account. That is the attitude that we need to have in the restaurant industry.”

THREE-STAR DREAM

Having held two Michelin stars since 2004, thoughts naturally wander to what, if anything, can be done to push on and achieve three stars.

“The goal is to carry on creating great chefs. That’s rule number one,” Daniel insisted.

“I want to see Liam develop into a three-star chef. We need to lift every stone to see what is possible underneath it. I don’t want to stop pushing what I believe is good enough to get it (three stars). If it’s not, it’s not. But why give up on it? It’s still the goal, 100 per cent.

“But the goal is also to be here in another 10 years.”

He added: “What people don’t see is it’s not just about the food. It can’t be. It’s got to be about the experience.

“The experience is not just what happens in the restaurant. Midsummer is a building where we have 28 members of staff.

“I want everyone to be proud to be here and proud of what we’re achieving as a team. I know we’re going to keep two stars. The direction we’re going, I think people need to stand up and start coming to Cambridge a bit more. We’re building something very special.

“Liam’s experience away and what he’s bringing to the kitchen now is an element of the future. It’s ideas that are inspired by him.

“We cook in a format of how I want chefs to cook in the future. I don’t want anything I learnt 35 years ago lost in this industry where we’ve become robotic.

“We’re in the top 10 restaurants in this country where I know you can come here and it’s going to smash you in the face with flavour, but it’s also going to make you stand back and go ‘wow’, because the seasoning is on point.

“That’s the bit I want to teach them and what makes the difference.”

So how much longer does Daniel see himself pursuing his dream at Midsummer?

He said: “My future is very grounded here. Cambridge is my home. Midsummer is my life. I don’t think I’ll ever let it go.

“The time Midsummer comes up for sale is probably when I’m in a box, and I’m alright with that.

“It’s iconic. I think it would break my heart to see someone else running it. It’s such a personal relationship.

“I still want to be involved in it. You don’t know the future. Maybe when I get to 58, 60, I’ll start cutting my hours down and manage it not being here 16 hours a day.

“But what is the future for Midsummer House? I’d like it to be here until I’m in a box really.”