Interview With Simon Hulstone At Bocuse d'or

Simon let's start by saying congratulations on what was an outstanding result for you and all the team in Geneva, in the European heats of the Bocuse d'or Thank you Has your success in Geneva, now actually placed you and the team under greater pressure in Lyon? Yes, I think it's put a hell of a lot of pressure on us. Our goal in Geneva was to finish eighth, perhaps seventh, sixth would have been a fantastic result. So, your aim was a top ten finish? More than top ten, somewhere in the middle, but finishing fourth has really put me and the team in the spotlight - not only here in the UK, but also outside of the country, amongst the other competing nations. We already know that we've had visits from other teams eating with us at The Elephant. Really? Yes, I've also been asked to go over to Sweden to do demonstrations, so the limelight is there but the pressure is really intense. The produce for Geneva was really kind to us with Veal and Halibut, but of course for Lyon we've Monkfish, which is an absolute bitch! It's such an awkward fish to use, getting something that is presentable, is proving bloody tough. Lamb not a problem, there's a lot that we can do with it and really play around and be creative. I am worried about the teams finish position, I'd be really happy if the team could finish in the top six. There's a lot of talk about me finishing on the podium, I think that is a massive challenge, but equally we were not expecting a fourth in Geneva, we are aiming for the podium. I have to be realistic, the American team is extremely good. They are training full time. Of course, then there are the Swedish guys, plus the winning three above me, so I think sixth would be an outstanding result. Simon, who will advise, help and coach you and the team for Lyon? I'm lucky enough to be working with some talented people, Ashley (Palmer Watts) from the Fat Duck, he has a couple of dish ideas that he's waiting to show me. Ashley is always great and just a phone call away. Of course, I've some great people around me, like Nick Vardis, and of course my ideas, and concepts, we plan to take the best of our Geneva success to Lyon. Simon, I'm certainly no expert in this but my understanding is that Thomas Keller is working with the US team? Not just (Thomas) Keller, but almost anyone that is anyone in US culinary world is on the American advisory panel - Charlie Trotter, Daniel Boulud, Grant Achatz Wow! Yes, Wow exactly! They are all on the advisory panel, and are really taking this very seriously. And, of course, the Danish Team, I believe have Rene Redzepi? In all fairness Rene is more the Ambassador, he heads the team, rather than being overly hands on, but the guy in the Danish team (Rasmus Kofoed) is basically shit hot; he is excellent, a great talent, and certainly in my eyes hot favourite, but it's what happens on the day. Absolutely, it is on the day and you have to believe that you're as good as anyone, Simon. I think we opened the Danish's team's eyes in Geneva. Speaking to the team, they were hugely surprised at our performance and what we produced and how we set up our food, and our production, which they described as "Clever". I think that we've certainly sent out a clear intention Simon, how do you prepare for a competition such as the Bocuse d'Or? We've already listed some of the biggest world named chefs, but this is not a "plated main course" style competition, is it? Yes and No, it's trying to walk that fine line between the two - great presentation and taste. We've certainly got taste on our side, where we struggle, as a team, is presentation, and that is down to practice, and the time to practise and fine tuning. This is where some of the teams, that are working on this now of course have a huge advantage. We managed to cram in seven full run through for Geneva, which is a lot. The last time I got to the final we managed three run throughs. It's about trying to find something that is going to make you stand out with twenty four judges. I've been talking with David Everett Mathias from Le Champignon Sauvage, who is very taste, flavour and classically minded. I can take David's idea and concept and perhaps work on it with Ashley (Palmer Watts) as to how we can present it for the competition. Mark Hill and, of course, Nick Vardis are the cold experts so I can take something from David, that has been discussed with Ashley, and Mark and Nick can add their expertise on how it would look on a platter. I can use all of these resources, but still I have to be comfortable that me and the team can produce this on the day, and that's hugely important. Ashley, of course, can offer his take and deliver some of the Heston (Blumenthal) "Feast style" dishes - it all helps. As I said earlier, you have to capture the attention of the judges, once they've had some twenty four dishes in front of them. I guess it almost become mundane. Of course and often, they tend to push the food around, if you take the cheek dish that I did, which I felt was my "la piece de resistance" when the food came back. Out of the twelve that went out seven had only really been looked at. Daniel Boulad, and few of the judges, actually said it was their dish of the competition - it was Cheffy; it was tasty. Simon, you're a very busy man. You run a Michelin star restaurant, it's the middle of the summer, when do you start practising for January which is not that far away, how do you balance running a business and practising? We run our Michelin Star restaurant "The Room" seasonally from March to October, so after we close, we start to get the team away, as they don't take a holiday during the season. That then gives me the freedom to start to practise. It allows me the opportunity to trial dishes on the Brasserie menu without the pressure of having to do them in the restaurant and perhaps not work. Then we enter November/December with a firm idea of the dishes that we are going to do. Moving into January, myself and Jordan, will take the month off from the restaurant to solely practice. We've got an additional team member joining us from the Mason Arms in January, which will mean that we'll have three people running the business, which is just as important as the practice as this is, of course, mine and my team's livelihood. It's possible that in January Jordan and I may decamp to London to practise, we have looked into moving to Lyon, though I'm not that keen on this, we've been offered the kitchen of l'Augerge de I'ill, which is fantastic, but whether it will work I'm not sure, having to source new suppliers; lots of logistics to work out as well. Simon, lastly but certainly by no means least, there are lots of people who I'm sure want to support you and the team, but perhaps will not be able to travel to Lyon. How can they offer their support? Geneva was amazing the support was just out of this world. I've got a Vuvuzela for Lyon by the way. (Laughter) Brilliant, looking up into the crowd at Geneva was a huge boost. The crowd cheering, not only was great support but it showed other teams that we were serious. We've not had support like that before and it worked. But it's not just about being there, they can support me through coming to the practice dinners; hard cash is important but again I know this is not always possible. Luckily most of the produce is now covered, through sponsors. We've got a poster coming out, so placing that in their own businesses; Twitter - Facebook. The PR this year has been the best we've had. This again though adds pressure, and what I'm really conscious of is raising the expectations of people and not delivering and pissing them off basically. I don't think you'll piss people off. Yes of course, the more the profile is raised the higher the expectation is. I'm sure I can't do any worse than our bloody football team. The main thing for the team is to get out there, and make our name, make our mark, our main sponsors Electrolux and Nestle, want to endorse this again, so it's very important to create a foundation that can be built on. I hope that since I won Chef of the Year, that it has opened up the competition, I'm certainly not as high profile as other winners such as Gordon Ramsay, David Everett Matthias, and this year if you look down the forty or so semi-finalists, I would hope, that my winning has encouraged "Every-day" chefs to enter, and I want that for the Bocuse d'Or . The support is there. Let's be honest the UK has often struggled with support against teams such as the US and other teams. Yes, it's often been difficult to unite a team. Yes, it's me that is doing the interviews but it's not just me - it's Jordon (Bailey), it's Nick (Vardis) Brian Turner, Michelle in the back who are all supporting and working as a team. I want this to be something that next year we can build on again. I had to travel to Denmark, to speak to previous winners, I hope I can share my experiences with the next team UK. Simon, I wish you and the team all the very best for January from us all at The Staff Canteen.