Alessio Ragusini, La Dame de Pic: 'You are there to create an experience'
Empathy, a rich knowledge of your craft, and the ability to make guests feel as though they are experiencing something magical are key ingredients to success as a sommelier, according to Alessio Ragusini.
The distinguished sommelier heads up the wine service at La Dame de Pic, set within the Four Seasons Hotel London.
“As a sommelier, you come to the table and you have to bring excitement to the guest,” he says. “You need to create this expectation that something outstanding is about to be poured into their glass. If you succeed at that, you win. You will create an unbreakable bond.”
Leading the distinguished restaurant’s food and wine pairings since 2021, no two days are the same for Alessio – one of the many factors he loves about his role.
“Working in a dynamic environment with a dynamic kitchen team, one of the biggest challenges that we face is the chefs changing a recipe,” he explains. “We could be opening for service, and a sauce or garnish has changed. It’s a small thing, but it completely alters the dish, and you have to come up with a solution very quickly, in terms of pairing. It's part of the game, and you have to go with it.”
The world of wine
A quick-thinking nature and being able to adapt in a fast-paced environment are among the skills Alessio has honed during his varied career. After discovering a passion for the hospitality industry whilst studying literature in his native Italy, he initially worked as a restaurant manager in Milan, where he took his first course in wine pairing. It was the fact that there is no specific role for a sommelier in Milan which drew him to London in 2019.
“In Milan, a restaurant manager does the role of the sommelier,” he explains. “I wanted to confront myself with a bigger market where all the great people are working, so I decided to move.”
Roles at the two-Michelin starred Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, within the London Mandarin Oriental Hotel, and 14 Hills - a D&D London restaurant and bar in the heart of the city - allowed Alessio to expand his skillset, and understand what makes a successful sommelier.
“You quickly realise there are a lot of things you still need to learn and practice,” he says.
“That was really helpful because it opened my eyes, and I understood that if I wanted to become someone, I really had to put in the effort and study. It was intense because I've never worked in a restaurant that was as busy or competitive as Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, but I am so thankful because I learnt so much in those days.”
Reflecting on what he loves about his role, he pinpoints the historical heritage of the world of wine as a driving factor.
“It is not just the wine; it is so much more than that,” he says. “It is the culture of the country or region and the people, the rich history. There is so much more behind it.”
Trust your sommelier
Today, Alessio is responsible for the two Michelin-starred restaurant’s food and wine pairings, along with the extensive cocktail menu. When it comes to inventing and concocting new creations for the drinks list, remaining unique is key.
“The beauty of working for La Dame de Pic is that you have access to so much knowledge,” he enthuses. “If you think about an ingredient, there is a huge library of knowledge where you can absorb things and create your own recipe. The heritage that the restaurant has is amazing.”
Drawing inspiration from everywhere around him, Alessio believes there are a number of key factors which make up a successful sommelier – and an ability to listen is close to the top of the list.
“You have to stay humble. If you speak first, without listening to what the guest is saying to you, you have already lost the connection with the table,” he explains. “You need to be able to be empathetic, and curious. Go to tastings on your day off, ask as many questions as you can as a junior, read all the time – these are the roots to your growth.”
Despite his passion for his craft, Alessio’s role is not without its challenges – and the need to keep up with ever-changing trends keeps him on his toes.
“There are so many ways of enjoying wine nowadays, and you have to keep up. You cannot do that unless you talk to people, and see what's new on the market,” he explains. “Another big challenge is to really try to make people happy and gain their trust, even though they may have different views on wine than you do. You have to navigate through opening people’s eyes to new opportunities, and hopefully they leave with a different approach to the world of wine pairing. It is a leap of faith - you really need to trust the sommelier.”
As for his proudest moment to date? Continuing to make his guests happy – along with a standout champagne moment.
“I love it when you reach the end of a meal, and the guests say, ‘You know what, the food here is very, very good, but the service and the wine pairing are excellent.’ That makes me so proud,” he explains. “A couple of years ago at La Dame de Pic, we were serving vintage champagne, a six-litre bottle of Cristal Champagne from 1990, which is also my vintage, and that was another exceptional moment.”
A one-of-a-kind dining experience
When it comes to his expert food and wine pairings at Le Dame de Pic, it is imperative that Alessio works closely with the kitchen team on a daily basis. “We really have to focus on what's in the dish, and talk with the chefs to understand the profile flavour of the dishes,” he explains. “You have to analyse all the ingredients and elements you have on the plate in order to come up with the right pairing.”
Alessio and the team at Le Dame de Pic are committed to constantly evolving and updating the menu, in order to create a one-of-a-kind dining experience.
“What we like to do is create flavours that don’t exist anywhere else. I believe what we do in terms of food and wine is truly spectacular,” he says. “We are there to create the experience and to make people happy – that is my main goal. Every day I manage to deliver that is a great success.
Renowned for its fine dining cuisine, guests at La Dame de Pic can look forward to distinctive French dishes, masterminded by revered chef Anne-Sophie Pic – who holds 12 Michelin stars across her restaurants. The two-Michelin starred restaurant first opened its doors in 2017, and has been serving up sumptuous cuisine in its intimate dining room ever since. Its leading team comprises 10 front-of-house staff and 15 kitchen members.
The team work together to deliver up to 45 covers per sitting. Open five days a week, La Dame de Pic serves dinner from 18:00-20:30 Tuesday-Friday, and 18:30-20:30 on Saturdays. A lunch service also operates from Friday-Saturday from 12:00-13:30.
Written by Tessa Watkins
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