In the run-up to Valentine’s Day, David Attwood is in the midst of grading oysters for an ever-hungry market, meaning his working day starts at 7am. “It’s very busy in February and we can put around 15,000 oysters through the graders each day,” says the Aquaculture Director of Loch Fyne Oysters, who has been with the company for 25 years.
Trending This Month – Experimenting in the Kitchen
Chef-Patron Colin Hinds enjoys experimenting with brines, marinades and even Seafood streetfood
“February isn’t so abundant in seafood, but there is still plenty to work with and lots of things you can do to keep it interesting,” says the ever-enthusiastic Colin Hinds, chef-patron of the Kilted Lobster restaurant in Edinburgh’s Stockbridge. He has recently purchased his own smoker and uses a variety of wood chips such as cherry and oak, different teas and even hay to produce a distinctive smoky flavour. He says he enjoys “playing around with ideas” for his menu, which currently features wild brill, megrim, hot and cold smoked turbot and hot smoked langoustines when he can get them.
“I also enjoy experimenting with different brines and marinades for fish, such as beetroot juice, whisky and gin,” he adds. And his newly developed crayfish butter for his whole lobster dish is hugely popular.
Seafood streetfood is also on his horizon, for it helps keep the creative juices flowing. His lobster aranchini and turbot carpaccio have been doing well at live events.
It’s clear, Vale of Leven-born Colin – and his customers – love Scottish seafood. He sources his from a hand-picked network of small independent suppliers. His scallops come from Mull and Shetland and his lobster from Skye and the Firth of Forth, for example. “It’s much easier to source from one supplier but I like to be flexible and work with what my guys can give me on the day, be it razor clams, eels or squat lobster,” he says. “Although it is more of a challenge for me, it’s enjoyable and it’s what I’m here for.”
In that time he has seen demand grow phenomenally to around 40,000 a week, compared to the few hundred sold at the roadside when Loch Fyne began 40 years ago.
Scottish oysters have a great reputation for
freshness and flavour, thanks to the
cold, pristine waters of the West Coast
Around half the Pacific oysters he is currently handling are from Loch Fyne itself, and the other half are from small farms off Islay, Kerrera, Ghia, Lismore and the Kyle of Tongue, sent to Loch Fyne for grading and purifying, and branding as Loch Fyne Oysters.
Even at these volumes, Scottish oyster production remains an artisan business. “Overall, Scottish oyster production is not big business at around 2.5 million a year, but they have a great reputation for freshness and flavour thanks to the cold, pristine waters of the West Coast which means they are slower growing and of great quality and freshness,” says David. That said, they can take up to five years to grow, which demands patience from both grower and consumer.
Demand for Scottish oysters has grown
phenomenally to around 40,000 per week,
explains David Atwood from Loch Fyne Oysters
“In the early days we only supplied the UK with oysters,” says David. “Now we export to Hong Kong twice a week, and we continue to develop new overseas markets such as China.”
Which means production continues apace, with even more early starts for him.
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