Shane Louw, Executive Chef, Mont Rochelle

Born and raised in Cape Town, South Africa, Shane Louw never expected a career in the kitchen but he is now Executive Chef for both of Mont Rochelle’s restaurants: Miko and the Country Kitchen.

As well as cooking in South Africa he has worked at Michelin-starred The Harrow at Little Bedwyn and The Square under Phil Howard.

The Staff Canteen spoke to him about ingredients native to South Africa, the food scene there and the main differences between working in the UK and his home country.

Talk us briefly through your career to date.

My first experience in a professional kitchen was in 1996; after taking a part-time job as a runner a rare opportunity arose to help out the Chef de Partie. The rest, as they say, is history! I trained in catering and hospitality at Cape College before undertaking a series of fast-paced roles in restaurants in South Africa and the UK, including a Michelin star restaurant owned by Roger Jones, called The Harrow in Little Bedwyn.

I then held the role of Executive Sous Chef at other well established properties over a period of five years, before heading back to school to complete my studies in business management. I now lead the kitchens as Executive Chef for both of Mont Rochelle’s restaurants: Miko and the Country Kitchen.

Why did you want to become a chef?

I have to be honest in saying I never planned to become a chef. When I was younger, I wanted to study graphic design but started working in kitchens and found it to be a great fast-paced, creative outlet. I always say I’m glad that I took this route because you can’t eat a sketch.

What do you love about being a chef and what keeps you wanting to cook?

I love the creativity of cooking; the way that there is an unlimited combination of flavours and styles yet to be discovered. I’ve also been lucky enough to work with some fantastic colleagues over the years. I find that kitchens are usually filled with so many different characters and I love the dark sense of humour that chefs are known for.

Your first experience in a Michelin kitchen was with Roger Jones at The Harrow in Little Bedwyn – how was that and was it a shock in comparison to your previous roles?

Working at The Harrow was a really valuable experience for me and opened my eyes to the variety of different ingredients, wines and dishes out there. Most of all, it showed me how important the integration of front of house and back of house staff is in order to run an award winning restaurant. I made some great friends there!

Why did you want to work at The Square?

There was one reason; Phil Howard, the previous owner and chef. He’s a living legend and The Square is not just a restaurant, it’s an institution.

Are there any significant differences between working in kitchens in the UK and South Africa?

In South Africa I don’t have to dress like a polar bear to get to work! When I was in the UK, I was lucky enough to work with such a variety of different nationalities which meant the opportunities to learn were amazing. There would be so many different cooking styles and ideas influencing the menu. I also loved cooking with the abundance of fresh ingredients that are so easily available in the UK.

Which ingredients native to South Africa do you love working with?

There are some amazing and unusual local ingredients that I love cooking with; meebos, buchu, falooda, and a fish caught off our coast called snoek. One of my personal favourite South African delicacies is a chutney called ‘Mrs Balls’; the strong version is perfect on fried eggs at the end of a shift.

How would you describe the food you serve at Mont Rochelle?

Progressive, modern, South African.

Who has been the biggest influence on your career to date and why?

The first (and only) cookbook that I ‘permanently borrowed’ was one by Jean Christophe Novelli. He’s been a huge influence ever since. Google wasn’t around when I started out my career, so cookbooks were the main source of inspiration. This book written by chef Novelli made me understand that the only limitation is your imagination.

What dish on your menu best showcases your cooking style?

It’s always hard to pick just one dish but I would have to say the Kudu Loin which we currently have on the menu in Miko. We pair it with some amazing locally sourced ingredients; smoked tomato mousse, foraged leaves, apricot puree and candied baby beetroots. It’s served with a delicious Buchhu tea dressing which, to me, screams South Africa.

What is the food scene like in South Africa?

Maybe I’m biased, but I think our food scene is amazing! Chefs are embracing the diversity of our local cuisine more and more. There are strong Indian, British and Dutch influences, and of course our own which stems deep into African heritage.

Other than your own restaurant, what's your favourite local restaurant?

A small restaurant also found in the South African winelands called FABER, which is headed up by chef Eric Bulpit.

Have you always strived to achieve accolades and what’s your key to success?

My key to success is to never cook purely to please others, but to cook with respect, understanding and to strive for excellence. A good gin and tonic only helps too!

Having worked under a number of top chefs how easy has it been to find your own style and niche?

My mind is generally all over the place, so working under chefs over the years has helped me refine the crazy ideas. Early on in my career, the first step was always to try and get a dish on the specials menu. The first time my dish made the cut was the most amazing feeling, and the Sous Chef even presented me with a trophy for my achievement.

It was an empty tomato sauce bottle, but I was so proud and had it on display for months. Although I’ve now established my own style, it’s still changing and developing. All sorts of factors can have an impact; the seasons, our suppliers, food trends and my mood that particular day.

What are your plans for the future for the restaurant?

To continue showcasing the best of local, South African produce and introducing more unusual flavours to our menu. There’s nothing I love more than seeing our guests trying an ingredient for the first time!

Would you like a restaurant of your own?

Absolutely! I love the idea of a place serving my ‘after dinner service’ favourites. When I get home at night, I stand in front of an open fridge and randomly throw together ingredients. Comfort food that fills my belly like epic cheese grillers and pickles – I think it would be a great restaurant concept! My second restaurant would have a menu based on only using 3 ingredients per dish. I love the idea of showcasing base ingredients to their full potential.