Kerstin Kühn: LA’s food truck scene
This is the latest in a series of monthly blogs by LA-based food writer and former restaurant editor of Caterer and Hotelkeeper, Kerstin Kühn, otherwise known as La Goulue.
Food trucks have never been more fashionable in America. Nearly three million of them roam US streets today, and their popularity has grown so big, the Government recently announced it is to use food trucks as a key feature of the US pavilion at Expo Milano, an international food-themed exhibition set to take place in Italy next year.
In an age when finances remain unstable yet restaurant sites are unaffordable for many operators, and when consumers are growing weary of the big chains but still demand quality food that is inventive, inexpensive and fast, food trucks have become the new trailblazers of culinary innovation.
And this is true nowhere more so than in Los Angeles.
While the modern food truck movement started in Texas in the 19th century, Mexican immigrants brought the taco truck culture to LA, where over the past five years the food truck scene has evolved into something of a cult. Today food trucks define the landscape in LA: drive around any part of the city and you’re guaranteed to see them parked on the side of the road next to office blocks, museums, university halls or in parking lots of shopping malls.
It may have been Roy Choi’s now iconic Korean barbecue truck, Kogi, which kick started the food truck craze in 2008, but inspired by his success, fleets of trucks have since taken to the streets of LA. The variety is astounding and you can get anything from German sausages to Texan barbecue or gourmet burgers, from sushi to Vietnamese banh mi and Thai fusion dishes, and from cupcakes and waffles to Italian ice cream. But it’s not just the food that draws in the crowds: funky, colourful designs and trademark uniforms are all part of the show, not to mention the obligatory Twitter account and social media onslaught.
Tracking down your favourite truck can be somewhat of a treasure hunt but every first Friday of the month, more than two dozen of LA’s most popular trucks gather on Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice Beach. For one night, a trendy and upmarket street of independent restaurants, bars and boutiques turns into a lively block party, with hundreds of people wandering around, checking out the scene and queuing up in front of their chosen trucks before tucking into the food while sitting on the sidewalk. And who can blame them – there isn’t a more fun and inexpensive way to spend a foodie night out in LA.
But the selection can be overwhelming: with nearly 30 different trucks and almost as many different cuisines on offer, it can be tough to know where to begin. Armed with a camera and five hungry friends in tow, I attacked First Friday head on. Here are my top five food trucks.
The idea for this truck was born after former seafood distributor and truck owner Justin Mi
embarked on a lobster roll tour in New England. Inspired by the lobster shacks in Maine, particularly the iconic Red’s Eats, he launched the Lobsta Truck in LA in 2010. In addition to its signature lobster roll, it serves a menu comprising East Coast specialities such as Dungeness crab roll, clam chowder, lobster bisque, chips, and whoopie pie.
Price: $12 for the lobster roll.
This burger truck is as much about the buns as it is about the ‘burger babes’ who serve them dressed in tiny booty shorts, tight tank tops and high heels. It offers seven half-pound ‘man-eater-sized’ burgers with names like She’s Smokin!; The Cougar; and The Perfect 10, as well as the signature, The Bombshell, a half-pound patty sandwiched between two bacon grilled cheese melts, topped with grilled onions and a side of baby’s special sauce.
Price: Burgers range from $9-$12.
While there are many food trucks in LA specialising in Asian fusion cuisine with an American twist, not all of them do it as well as Arroy. Owned by chef Akeem Wong, the signature Thai sliders are the real deal: crispy pork belly or beef brisket is slathered with garlic aioli, spicy Thai slaw and crispy shallots. Lighter options include the Thai chicken salad with skewers, peanut vinaigrette, tofu, mixed greens and wantons.
Price: $12 for two sliders, fries and a drink.
Started by former hospitality recruitment agency owner, Dave Danhi, this award-wining truck’s menu goes way beyond classic combinations. Items include the Cheesy Mac and Rib Melt: macaroni and
cheese with sharp cheddar, BBQ pork and caramelised onions; or the Goats Cheese Melt: herbed goats cheese with roasted butternut squash, cranberry-pear relish and spiced pecan nuts. Sweet melts meanwhile include the S’more Melt: marshmallows, Nutella and crumbled Graham crackers.
Price: Melts range from $8 to $9.
Erica Tucker opened her Sweet E’s Bake Shop in 2009, with her mobile food truck following a year later. With pink rims and a beautiful display of the sweets, the truck sells signature cake pops, cookies, macarons and an array of mini-cupcakes in flavours like strawberries and cream, pumpkin spice and red or blue velvet. There are also brownies and mini-waffle cones filled with frosting and sprinkles, along with chocolate milk and hot chocolate.
Price: $6 for cupcake and a drink.
Kerstin Kühn is a freelance food and travel writer, specialising in restaurant and chef stories. The former restaurant editor of Caterer and Hotelkeeper, she relocated from London to Los Angeles last summer, where she lives with her husband and two cats. With a vast network of chefs from around the world, Kerstin has profiled the likes of Michel Roux, Heston Blumenthal, Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud, the Roca brothers and Massimo Bottura. She has been a contributor to publications including FOUR Magazine, the Evening Standard Food and Travel Magazine, M&C Report, Design Week, Frame Magazine and City and Canary Wharf Magazines and also writes her own blog, La Goulue. You can follow Kerstin on Twitter @LaGoulue_
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