Ben Goldsmith Head Chef The Talbot Cuckfield West Sussex
Umm, it was basically, due to my family. My granddad owned a catering company in Brighton; my dad then owned a catering company in Brighton. That he inherited from his dad? Yes, and it went on from there really. They sold it on; it became part of Forfar's and I had an interest in it from about the age of 14.
OK, so you started washing up?
No, I kind of bypassed that part. I started working for my Nan in an old people's home when I was 14. At 15 I went on, with the same company, but to somewhere else and started as a little Commis doing bits and pieces, and my first job was to separate 190 eggs!
Fantastic. So, what did you do then? Go to college?
Yes, I went straight from school to college, obviously I was a head of the game because I had been doing it for two years prior. I did three years full time college, as well as working evenings and weekends.
OK, and what was your first major step into catering, outside of the family business?
Probably, The Green Man, while I was at college. It was a little pub just in the village of Partridge Green. It was one of the first Gastro type pubs, not doing anything crazy when you look back at it now, but then it was quite modern and quite fresh. I worked there three or four days a week.
And where did you go after that?
I stayed in the area - West Sussex. Down to Brighton, to a few hotels down there. Did half a year in contract catering, that's when my daughter was born. Gave that up pretty quick.
Why was that?
I just fancied the hours but it wasn't all it cracked up to be and I wanted to get back into the game.
When you say "It wasn't all it was cracked up to be" what do you mean? What didn't you enjoy about it?
Service. Service and the standard of food. There was only so many things you can do. I mean, yes it was quite good fun and the hours - you were done by 3 O'clock but ...
It's come a long way now, though, contract catering? I mean - Directors Dining especially?
Yes, it's huge but you have got to be in that market and there are so many contract catering places that just do lunch. I mean, we did contract catering and we did contract gaming as well.
OK.
So I was part of a team of four and we went round to different Universities and we were cooking for the contracts and that that was the best part of it, to be fair.
OK.
Yes, competition style.
OK. So your daughter is born; you get out of contract catering. What do you do next?
Well, unfortunately my father dies and my daughter was born at near enough the same time ... sorry, my daughter was born the year prior. So I thought "Sod this!" I want to get back into it. Found a little place. Needed a bit of help. Needed the challenge. So I took it on.
Where was that?
Cromwells at Golding Barn, which has just won The Dining Award for Sussex last year.
OK.
That was my first Head Chef's job.
What sort of food were you doing there?
Umm, kind of Gastro pub kind of food. Sat on the side of the South Downs; very country pub kind of thing, very picturesque.
What sort of covers were you doing?
On decent nights up to 100. Wow! Yes, big numbers.
How many in your team?
Five. We were pushing - breakfast, lunch and dinner.
So that's something like three in the kitchen all the time, isn't it?
Yes, four at the weekends. I wanted to push myself and prove something to myself. So we did very well there and then I got head-hunted for somewhere else.
And where was that?
Whites in Steyning.
OK.
Where I won young chef of the year.
So what is Whites? A hotel? Restaurant?
I think it was an eighteenth century coaching house, originally.
Independently owned?
Yes, with a brewery. They bought some Sous Chefs from here (South Lodge) originally but I don't think that worked out so they had been trading for about a year and came over to me at Cromwell's because it was only about 5 miles away and they offered me a job on the table.
OK, when you were there, you did Sussex Young Chef of the Year?
Yes.
What made you enter that?
I didn't enter it... people entered for me. I presumed I was too old because the entry form was to 25 and I was 25, I got an email to say you have been selected for the final - can your submit your dish, so I thought "OK lets go for it!"
So what dish did you do?
Venison, I did a loin and a braised faggot, basically, with a smoked potato puree, parsnip foam, roasted parsnips. Braised cabbage and a juniper and caraway spiked venison sauce.
Very nice. And that won you the competition, did it?
Yes, we had to cook off down at the local Catering College down at Brighton.
Who were the judges?
There were some from the Sussex Food and Drink awards, a couple of local foodies - food writers, that kind of thing, and some lecturers. So, six judges in total.
OK, so Ben tell us about your new venture. You've got a brand new opportunity coming up - The Talbot.
Yes, it's in Cuckfield - it's even older than Cromwell's, it goes back to the seventeenth century. Coaching inn once again, split level operation, bar downstairs. Very much drink only - we will sell food down there at lunchtime upstairs has four metre tall ceiling; forty-five seater restaurant; open plan kitchen.
Have you changed it much structurally inside?
Layout wise not hugely. But the kitchen - there wasn't a kitchen there before; there now is with a bloody great big hole in the side.
And how many guys will you have in your team?
They'll be six.
What sort of food will you be serving?
Umm, I've been asked that a lot... and to kind of sum it up is quite hard. I quite like a modern eclectic mix as well as a few old classics, as well. Tried and trusted flavours I don't mind doing but also at the same time a little bit wacky. Yes. And it's definitely has got to be fun.
That's good. Who inspires you as a Chef?
I'm not sure really, you look at my menus - if i had someone who inspired me I couldn't put it down to one person. I like to look and do a bit of research on this and that - modern ways just interest me.
Who or what was the last cook book you bought?
Cook book I bought? I win them all from you!! (Laughter). No, seriously, I got bought a Heston (Blumenthal) book on The Fat Duck.
The Big Fat Duck Cookbook?
Yes.
And it is ... a Big Fat book!
Yes, it is.
OK, Ben, what does the future hold for you?
Well, I would like to be recognised within the trade, personally.
OK, when you say recognised do you mean by what? Your image? Your profile? By accolades? By what?
A bit of it all really. I am not accolade driven but I want someone to say to me, a national critic or a national member of the press to say "Yes, you've done well here."
Ok, but won't your customers already be saying that?
Yes, definitely. The customer is always going to come first but I would like that pat on the back from ...
You'd like the Chef's badge of honour?
Yes, kind of.
Aren't accolades just that?
I think it is, yes.
Because who buys guide books? Chefs.
I don't know, I haven't bought one.
Really? Chefs and Recruitment Agents buy guide books.
Yes, probably but I think once you've got them you don't worry about it, if I am truthful.
Fair comment. I think most people that say they aren't worried about them are worried about them.
Yes, and I wouldn't mind some.
Absolutely, who wouldn't. It's a recognised award of what you do. Well, listen the very best of luck with The Talbot and thanks for all your support on the site. You're welcome.
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